Tag: Promised Land: Israel through the eyes of surfers
-
a mutiny of thoughts
I’ve been taking my 6’0″ out the past couple of mornings. I enjoy the feeling of quick, sharp turns, lip-snaps and the weight/unweight a shortboard offers when the waves have push and a certain steepness to them. I really like messing with my body, confusing my muscles out of their usual neuronal firings in order…
