“Those who don’t preserve their history end up with their stories told incorrectly or not told at all. It’s incumbent upon all of us to know women’s surfing history and tell it whenever we can.” -Mary Mills
The History of Women’s Surfing has not been written. What little history we do have is littered among the more detailed and well documented narrative of men’s surfing. These brief asides highlight women who have made gains for and in the surf industry. Almost exclusively, these were women who participated at high levels in professional surfing, and while we celebrate and elevate these stories with gratitude and reverence, we know that for every one story that is told, there are countless others that remain in the shadows.
It is time to change all this…
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